Sada Fretz
March 09, 1990 AT 05:00 AM EST

As American as Apple Pie

type
Book
Current Status
In Season
author
Phillip Stephen Schulz
genre
Cooking/Home

We gave it an A-

Phillip Schulz’ personal comfort foods include his Oklahoma mother’s apple pie; but Schulz, now a New Yorker, takes a broader view of American pie in his generous investigation of the foods he finds ”at home on everyone’s range.” Well aware that ”wars could be fought over the ‘correct’ texture of a brownie” and that real battles have raged over what constitutes an authentic chili or clam chowder, Schulz has come up with the disarming notion of collecting his 12 favorite versions of each of 20 favorite American dishes for As American as Apple Pie. In the process he has picked up a diverting assortment of quotations and anecdotes and so many odd but stoutly recommended practices that just browsing through the fried chicken formulas, for example, you’ll find yourself rushing ahead to find out what cockamamy sauce (yes, sauce!) will turn up next. A-

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