Sada Fretz
March 01, 1991 AT 05:00 AM EST

The Frugal Gourmet On Our Immigrant Ancestors

type
Book
Current Status
In Season
author
Jeff Smith
genre
Cooking/Home

We gave it a B

The Frugal Gourmet on Our Immigrant Ancestors, the latest best-seller by TV chef Jeff Smith, takes a characteristically breezy-but-businesslike approach to our immigrant heritage. For this sampling from 35 ethnic traditions, Smith has ignored the customary star cuisines — Chinese, Italian, and French — in favor of others less glamorous, such as Irish and German; lesser known, like Jamaican and Yugoslavian; and more recently established, such as Thai and Ethiopian. Give or take a few sometimes inexplicable ”improvements,” his recipes are faithful and easily manageable versions of Old Country chestnuts and New World improvisations. But not withstanding the cute subtitle, ”Recipes you should have gotten from your grandmother,” the book’s chief appeal is in the professional way it’s been screened and sifted for cross-cultural browsing. B

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