Sada Fretz
August 16, 1991 AT 04:00 AM EDT

Bradley Ogden's Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner

type
Book
Current Status
In Season
author
Bradley Ogden
publisher
Random House
genre
Cooking/Home, Nonfiction

We gave it an A-

Bradley Ogden has made his mark as a chef in San Francisco and nearby Marin County, but his sophisticated American fare is grounded, he says, in the earthy tastes of his Traverse City, Mich., childhood. This kind of high-low, old-new cross-cultural culinary adventuring is not rare in today’s upscale restaurants, but Ogden seems to have a special talent for unexpectedly happy matches and enhancing touches. The recipes at Bradley Ogden, like the crisp peppered duck, seasoned with ancho chili powder and glazed with fresh plums and port, is just one example of his seamless blending of cooking styles and flavors. At the high-input end, one blockbuster venison chili takes all day and has you flipping back and forth to incorporate sub- and sub-sub-recipes from elsewhere in the book. Other less involved dishes also send you pages hence to pull in components. That’s a practice that annoys some casual cooks, but it adds to the urbane timbre that makes this a smart choice for entertaining. A-

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