Tina Jordan
May 28, 1993 AT 04:00 AM EDT

By turns mouthwatering (apple pancakes) and nauseating (pickled shrimp), Dining by Rail evokes the days when railroad chefs turned out crab bisque, prime rib, and banana blancmange in their tiny kitchens, and white-jacketed waiters served the meal on good china, with carefully polished silverware and perfectly pressed linens. A sumptuous social history, complete with recipes.

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