Lisa Schwarzbaum
March 18, 1994 AT 05:00 AM EST


Current Status
In Season
Bob Shacochis
Cooking/Home, Essays

We gave it an A-

Because his fiction — Easy in the Islands, Swimming in the Volcano — tastes so satisfyingly spicy, it’s easy to understand why GQ signed Shacochis up five years ago as the magazine’s ”Dining In” columnist: His vibrant, offbeat, and sensual essays on the importance of food in the daily affairs of interesting, idiosyncratic men and women who know their way around kitchens combine an enthusiastic storyteller’s love of narrative with an enthusiastic cook’s love of fresh ingredients. Nearly all the pieces in Domesticity are from that GQ gig, wherein Shacochis uses the raw materials of his longstanding, nutritionally balanced relationship with the coyly named ”Miss F” to concoct appealing philosophical riffs, capped with serious recipes (for pheasant, for roast suckling pig, for West Indian pepper pot). Sometimes he gets caught up too much in the showy gloriousness of his own interesting, idiosyncratic life (and writer’s voice). Mostly, though, Shacochis cooks his columns just right and serves them salted and peppered to, taste. A-

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