Whitney Pastorek
May 25, 2007 AT 04:00 AM EDT

Stealing the Wave

type
Book
Current Status
In Season
author
Sandy Martin
publisher
Bloomsbury
genre
Sports, Nonfiction

We gave it an B+

Jon Krakauer’s 1995 article on Mark Foo in Outside was the Into Thin Air of surf stories: Foo, a famed big-wave surfer, was killed in late 1994 while taking his first runs on the Maverick’s break off Northern California’s coast. In Stealing the Wave, Andy Martin elevates that tragedy to near mythological proportions, chronicling how Foo’s rivalry with fellow boarder Ken Bradshaw pushed him to that fatal brink. In lush, dramatic terms, he recounts what feels like every wave ridden during the duo’s two decades of competition on Hawaii’s intense North Shore. It’s a bit of overkill, certainly, but surf enthusiasts and wannabes alike will probably get sucked in. B+

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