Jennifer Reese
November 09, 2007 AT 05:00 AM EST

The Lost Ravioli Recipes of Hoboken

Current Status
In Season
Laura Schenone
W.W. Norton
Memoir, Nonfiction

We gave it a B

You sometimes wish Judith Jones had delved deeper in her culinary memoir, The Tenth Muse; Laura Schenone goes to the opposite extreme in her lovely but rambling memoir, The Lost Ravioli Recipes of Hoboken. (Gotta love that title.) ”I wanted something Enduring — a recipe of my own that did not come from a cookbook or a culinary expert on a television show,” Schenone writes of her decision, in midlife, to track down her family’s hallowed ravioli recipe. But when a relative sent her the ingredient list, she was appalled to see supermarket cream cheese. Her quest for a more ”authentic” ravioli takes Schenone from suburban New Jersey to the Ligurian mountains with countless digressions — some scintillating, others less so — on chestnut flour, the deeper meaning of dumplings, and the vicissitudes of marriage. B

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