Owen Gleiberman
March 23, 2012 AT 04:00 AM EDT

Jiro Dreams of Sushi

type
Movie
Current Status
In Season
mpaa
PG
runtime
81 minutes
Limited Release Date
03/09/12
director
David Gelb
distributor
Magnolia Pictures
genre
Documentary

We gave it a B+

What’s the greatest sushi restaurant in the world? According to many in Japan (not to mention the Michelin Guide), it’s a modest little hole-in-the-wall sushi bar tucked inside a Tokyo subway station and run by Jiro Ono, the 85-year-old subject of this tasty documentary — a no-frills movie with moments of nirvana for sushi lovers. It’s no surprise that the tall, spry, jokey Jiro is a perfectionist, but the film’s real allure is his obsession with simplicity: He has found magic in preparing the same elemental cuts, day after day, for 70 years. Director David Gelb pulls back the curtain on the kitchen rituals of sushi, inviting us to experience the savory-smooth sensation of ”umami,” roughly translated as ”Ahhh!” B+

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