Ken Tucker
September 14, 2012 AT 04:13 PM EDT

As a long-standing fan of novelty food items — you can bet I still have a vintage-1970s Dudley Do-Right Frosty-Os cereal box (empty; flattened) — I haunted my local Target until it finally shelved the new Candy Corn Oreos that went on sale this week. Halloween is nowhere near, but I’m a candy-corn fan, I’m guessing these will sell out, and there was no way I was not going to sample these “limited edition” confections. Plus, they’re cheaper than the new iPhone.

These new seasonal cookies have received quite a bit of TV coverage. (Here’s where I justify posting this item as a review.)

Please be assured that I am not a junk-food junkie. As my family can attest, I can survive on dinners of my treasured, super-healthy quinoa-and-brocolli recipe that I learned from David Lynch on one of the Extras on the Inland Empire DVD for weeks at a time. But I’m also a man with a sweet tooth.

My taste test was conducted with a cup of strong black coffee, the better to off-set the inevitable super-sweetness. (It’s a control-group thing as well: I eat the occasional fistfull of regular candy corn with coffee as well.) The result:

• The cookie is visually pleasing. Two tan vanilla discs, with filling that is a circle bisected by the orange and yellow colors of your traditional, tooth-shaped piece of candy-corn. Whether you look at the cookie sideways or unscrew the halves, you get the full candy-corn experience, summoning up decades of Halloween candy consumption.

• Smell: They must douse these things in Eau d’Oreo Corn de Sucre Candi — these suckers positively stink of candy corn!

• Taste: I bit one in half. The sweetness of the cookie (the same kind used in your ordinary Vanilla Oreo, a product I dislike) competed a bit strongly with the filling (excuse me: “flavor creme,” per the package). But after the second bite, the candy-corn flavoring triumphed. This is an excellent example of taste mash-up, combining the crunch of a cookie with the plesasantly nauseating/ambrosial taste of the Halloween mainstay. Suggested serving size is two cookies and I wouldn’t recommend pushing it beyond that.


Have you/will you try this glowing example of American foodstuffs?

Twitter: @kentucker

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