Dalene Rovenstine
December 11, 2014 AT 06:38 PM EST

Disagreements over fabric go hand in hand with Project Runway—but typically the run-ins happen at Mood. In Thursday’s all new Project Runway All Stars, the designers are given set fabric types to use in the challenge. Sonjia gets brocade, but the other designers are convinced what she’s using isn’t brocade. Which begs the ultimate question: What is brocade?

Is “brocade” the new “pea puree“? Be sure to check out Project Runway All Stars episodes Thursdays at 9 p.m. ET on Lifetime.

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