For fans of GQ’s globe-trotting restaurant critic, Fork it Over’s collection of essays will be like déjà vu all over again. The ex-sportswriter loves lean sentences built on sharp observation and blustery opinion. He bashes chef Paul Bocuse, the food in Naples, and the over-use of the cheese cart with the same vigor he might reserve for a visiting hockey team. Reading Alan Richman is like taking a brisk walk with a very funny friend.
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