Heat In 2002, New Yorker staffer Buford began apprenticing after-hours at NYC's Babbo. Though as a novice he was known as "the kitchen bitch," he fell… Heat In 2002, New Yorker staffer Buford began apprenticing after-hours at NYC's Babbo. Though as a novice he was known as "the kitchen bitch," he fell… 2006-05-30 Nonfiction Knopf
Book Review

Heat (2006)

EW's GRADE
A-

Details Release Date: May 30, 2006; Writer: Bill Buford; Genre: Nonfiction; Publisher: Knopf

In 2002, New Yorker staffer Buford began apprenticing after-hours at NYC's Babbo. Though as a novice he was known as ''the kitchen bitch,'' he fell hard for the gutsy food and eventually went on to study tortellini wrapping and hog butchering in Italy.

Kitchen Hero
Mario Batali, Babbo's flamboyantly Rabelaisian, filthy-mouthed chef. His motto: ''Wretched excess is just barely enough.''

The Skinny
Buford's account of his romance with Italian cooking is wonderfully thoughtful and personal, if meandering.

Originally posted May 19, 2006 Published in issue #878 May 26, 2006 Order article reprints