The Reach of a Chef (2006) Ruhlman tries to define the chef's role in our "sprawling, food-neurotic country" by profiling trendsetters from Masayoshi Takayama to Rachael Ray. Kitchen Hero Ruhlman has… 2006-05-18 Nonfiction Viking
Book Review

The Reach of a Chef (2006)

EW's GRADE
B

Details Release Date: May 18, 2006; Writer: Michael Ruhlman; Genre: Nonfiction; Publisher: Viking

Ruhlman tries to define the chef's role in our ''sprawling, food-neurotic country'' by profiling trendsetters from Masayoshi Takayama to Rachael Ray.

Kitchen Hero
Ruhlman has a terminal case of chef worship, but he reserves his most obsequious praise for Thomas Keller, the ''artist-monk'' of California's French Laundry.

The Skinny
A fun page-turner on what happens in restaurants, but Ruhlman's breathless accounts of minor kitchen mishaps — spilled vinaigrette, broken egg yolks — border on self-parody.

Originally posted May 19, 2006 Published in issue #878 May 26, 2006 Order article reprints