Who can turn le monde on with her smile? Why, it's Jessica (Cécile De France), a small-town gamine with spunk to spare in Avenue Montaigne: She blows into Paris, euro-less, and before you can say ''frothy French mainstream cinema,'' she's waiting tables at a Michelin guide fantasy of a bistro, where her clients (among them a famous pianist, a famous actress, and a famous art collector) are all glittery and gently neurotic. For Yank color in her soap-bubbly movie, director Daniele Thompson has her pal Sydney Pollack appear as...a famous director. B-


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