The same mystique that made an icon of a fat New Jersey mobster informs the stylish first 14 episodes of The Untouchables, based on Eliot Ness' book. Robert Stack's Ness is dogged, incorruptible, and square in his attempts to lasso the high-living gangsters with the rat-a-tat-tat patois (Capone, Ma Barker, etc.). He even shows a grudging admiration for a few, like the dashing ex-con played by Hawaii Five-O's Jack Lord, who says (after Ness bids him ''Say hello to the boy for me''), ''You're nobody he ever heard of.'' EXTRAS None. B+


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