He is middle-aged, talented as hell, and you've never heard of him. Such is life for Chris Rea in these United States where, despite oodles of admiration from every other corner of the world, he haven't had a fair hearing in 10 years. Englishman Rea had a pop hit in '78 with ''Fool (If You Think It's Over)'' and then vaporized; he has since become a major European star who gets compared to Dire Straits a lot. Rea is an interesting writer. In Auberge, even a simple song like ''Gone Fishing,'' about relationships gone sour, has an ominous undercurrent. So what have we got? It may be unfair to use the Y word after all, the guy sounded like this before most young urbanites went pro but this album, slickly produced, is aimed directly at the heart of the thirtysomething nation. B+

