Steal the Menu As gastronomic guides go, you can't do much better than former New York Times and Wall Street Journal restaurant critic Raymond Sokolov, whose jaunty prose… Steal the Menu As gastronomic guides go, you can't do much better than former New York Times and Wall Street Journal restaurant critic Raymond Sokolov, whose jaunty prose… 2013-05-14 Memoir Knopf
Book Review

Steal the Menu (2013)

STEAL THE MEAL by Raymond Sokolov
STEAL THE MEAL by Raymond Sokolov
EW's GRADE
C+

Details Release Date: May 14, 2013; Writer: Raymond Sokolov; Genre: Memoir; Publisher: Knopf

As gastronomic guides go, you can't do much better than former New York Times and Wall Street Journal restaurant critic Raymond Sokolov, whose jaunty prose in Steal the Menu gets you a tableside seat everywhere from Tennessee barbecue pits to French haute cuisine temples. But as a memoirist, Sokolov leaves the reader underfed. Personal details are scant (he doesn't even give his wife's name until 14 pages after he mentions their marriage). Anecdotes about foodie stars like Julia Child and Paul Bocuse are unilluminating, and the lack of any thematic through-line allows plenty of time for your mind to wander to what restaurant reservation you should make when you finish reading. C+

Originally posted May 08, 2013 Published in issue #1259 May 17, 2013 Order article reprints
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