Note to everybody west of the Hudson River: Rao's is an East Harlem establishment famous for its jukebox, its sublime Italian food, and the sheer impossibility of ever getting a reservation. Like the joint itself, Big Night-meets-The Big Chill compilation An Evening at Rao's: Songs From an Italian Restaurant piles it high with R&B chestnuts, Neapolitan serenades, Rat Pack romps, and gargantuan helpings of good cheer and formaggio. You leave feeling fatter than Don Corleone. A-
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