PAOLO CONTE The Best of Paolo Conte (Nonesuch) On his American debut, this 61-year-old Italian jazz-pop singer captures the atmosphere of smoky, lonely bars, tapping the sort of bleary-eyed romanticism well known to fans of Tom Waits, Leonard Cohen, and Jacques Brel. As Conte slurs on ''Via Con Me,'' '''S wonderful, 's wonderful...da-ti-du-di-du.'' A-
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