ATOMIC COCKTAILS

ATOMIC COCKTAILS Karen Brooks, Gideon Bosker, and Reed Darmon (Chronicle, $12.95) The mid-'90s highball revival sputters to its final fizzle with this smartly concocted but bandwagon-trailing array of kitschy beverage recipes (''Urban Bourbon,'' ''Hoolie Coolie Cantaloupe Cure,'' etc.). Sadly, the trio's impressive display of space-age matchbooks, shakers, and other assorted lounge ephemera comes long after the rest of us started feeling our Cosmo habit was a little affected, a little precious. Skip the companion set of pseudo-vintage serviettes, swizzle sticks, and coasters (an extra $14.95) and answer me this instead: Do you really have the patience to grate a quarter teaspoon of ginger for an ''Angry Red Planet''? If so, I raise my glass to you. B