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APPETITE FOR LIFE: THE BIOGRAPHY OF JULIA CHILD Noel Riley Fitch (Doubleday, $25.95) It may be unsettling to find out that Julia Child ever lusted after anything naughtier than a good burgundy. But our sanctified ''lady of the ladle'' has, with characteristic elan, flung open her entire life's chest of drawers -- diaries, letters, falsies, you name it -- to Anais Nin chronicler Fitch, so what can you do? Fortunately, the 6'2'' Pasadena native -- with her severe case of dropski, her penchant for talking back to appliances, her inimitable timbre -- has had an unusually meaty life with a sweet love story at its core. Best to make like you did while watching her wrestle with chicken legs: Sit back, slightly dazed, and let the drama unfold. A -- Alexandra Jacobs

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