It may be unsettling to find out that Julia Child ever lusted after anything naughtier than a good burgundy. But our sanctified ''lady of the ladle'' has, with characteristic elan, flung open her entire life's chest of drawers diaries, letters, falsies, you name it to Anais Nin chronicler Fitch, so what can you do? Fortunately, the 6'2'' Pasadena native with her severe case of dropski, her penchant for talking back to appliances, her inimitable timbre has had an unusually meaty life with a sweet love story at its core. Best to make like you did while watching her wrestle with chicken legs: Sit back, slightly dazed, and let the drama unfold. A


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