The voice is rough-hewn, the style carefree, at times even reckless. Whether uncovering an unexpected hipness in Johnny Mercer and Henry Mancini's ''Moon River'' or honoring jazz legend Sidney Bechet with an evocative story-song (''Something for Sidney''), sing-er-songwriter-pianist Dorough seems like a man happily making his own music. One of jazz's true individualists. A-


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