5 Chinese Brothers, the best country band in New York, are neither brothers nor Chinese, but they have never let their ongoing identity crisis turn them into smug urbanites. On A Window Shopper's Christmas, their fourth release, the quintet unleash their gentle ironic touch on the season with a set of tightly crafted originals that maintain a down-home benevolence while focusing on such non-Christmas themes as suicide (''And to All a Good Night'') and porn (''Missing Miss December''). B+

