In terms of tonal beauty, Ella Fitgerald's voice was its most sublime from the mid '50s to early '60s, during which she recorded the landmark ''songbook'' albums. Savor her sailing freely above Buddy Bregman's potent studio band on Rodgers and Hart's ''Lover,'' or tenderly touching down upon the words ''and maybe...a baby'' in Irving Berlin's ''How About Me.'' A
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