The Quintessential Peggy Lee

To see, not just hear, Peggy Lee — her face by turns playfully teasing and curiously impassive — adds to the appreciation of this most philosophical of singers. Her rendition of ''Is That All There Is?'' (as perfect a match of performer and material as exists) belongs in any basic jazz-video library. This 1984 concert from Atlantic City, The Quintessential Peggy Lee, also includes a lilting ''I Love Being Here With You,'' a haunting ''The Folks Who Live on the Hill,'' and virtually all of her other most-requested numbers. But why so many long shots, when we want to read every subtle expression? A-