When McGraw hit big with 1994's ''Indian Outlaw,'' he looked like a commercially successful embarrassment, à la Billy Ray Cyrus. On All I Want, McGraw makes an astonishing leap to fully realized performer. His superlative song choice (''All I Want Is a Life''), emotional embodiment of a lyric, and persona the loser with a heart of gold make him this year's most deserving underdog. A


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