MCKENNA

For a series showcasing serene scenic beauty, mckenna (ABC, Sept. 22, 9-10 p.m.) has a rather shaky moral center. Chad Everett stars as the founder of McKenna Outfitters, a family-run service in Bend, Ore., that takes city slickers out for white-water rafting and a general roughing-it experience. McKenna strives all too obviously for comparisons with the recent movie A River Runs Through It. The debut episode featured murmured voice-over narration from a McKenna son (Eric Close) about what a great guy his dad is. But as Jack McKenna, Everett struts around doing a Clint Eastwood imitation-he fixes his face in a perpetual scowl, talks in a low, rumbling voice-and doesn't seem like such a terrific father. You quickly realize that the business of McKenna Outfitters is to hoodwink the customers into thinking they're having a good, tough time, when they're actually being guided through tame events and fed gourmet food. We're supposed to admire this clan? C-