Country Country

21. Opryland
A park with song-themed rides — like ''The Wabash Cannonball'' — and numerous stage shows that serve as a training center for Broadway talent (Cynthia Rhodes and Mary Elizabeth Mastrantonio are both Opryland graduates).

22. The Nashville Palace
Randy Travis flipped burgers in the kitchen. Ricky Van Shelton was discovered here singing. Highway 101's Nikki Nelson was a waitress.

23. Grand Ole Opry
Home to the longest-running radio show in the world (going since 1925).

24. Starwood Amphitheatre
Tennessee's biggest concert venue, where Hank Williams Jr. throws his May birthday bashes and Charlie Daniels stages his Volunteer Jam shows.

25.Billy Bob's Texas, Fort Worth, Tex.
The urban cowboy is alive and well at the world's largest honky-tonk. The folks at Billy Bob's will be insulted if you ask about the mechanical bulls — they've got real ones. Now in its 11th year, the club books stars such as Alabama, Lorrie Morgan, and the Texas Tornados.

26.Blueburd Cafe
The hippest music-industry club in Nashville. Reservations are essential, even for the lowliest writers' nights.

27. The Stagecoach
Greatest hillbilly house band in Nashville. Stars' sidemen and recording musicians sit in. Everyone dances.

28. Grizzly Rose, Denver
Do they two-step in Denver? (Does it snow in the Rockies?) This dance hall books everyone from the Marshall Tucker Band to Sawyer Brown. Big stage, fine acoustics, and a laid-back attitude.

29. The Station Inn
A bluegrass mecca. The pickin' is so hot here, you'll melt. Historic posters on the walls, too.

30. Tennessee State Fairgrounds
Kiss the earth: site of Fan Fair since 1982, this year from June 8 through 14. 31. Springwater
Eloquent in its charming dinginess, this roadside tavern is where Steve Earle and many other scruffy pickers cut their teeth.

32. The Palomino, N. Hollywood, Calif.
Tuesday is country night at this venerable old rock club, which means that Ronnie Mack's got his Barn Dance going, and anybody from progressive country singer Rosie Flores to rockabilly wonder Ray Campi might show up.

Grave Sites
33. Marty Robbins' Grave
Brenda Lee sang at the funeral. All of Nashville wept when the Opry's greatest showman died in 1982.

34. Mt. Olivet Cemetery
Kitty Wells and Johnny Wright courted among the tombstones at the top of this fabulous city overlook. Hall of Famer Fred Rose and other Nashville music pioneers are buried here.

35. Spring Hill Cemetery
Roy Acuff, 88, already has a star's spot picked out right at the entrance, and the stone is carved with a fiddle. Also home to Keith Whitley's grave, a reminder of the dark side of country stardom.

Hotels, Shopping Areas
36. Opryland Hotel
A must-see. One lobby has murals of Nashville history; another, cascading waterfalls, a merry-go-round bar and a Liberace-costumed harpist; a third, a jungle the size of a football field.

37. Ernest Tubb Record Shop
Part of Coal Miner's Daughter was shot here. The longtime site of radio's ''Midnight Jamboree'' exudes history. The single best spot in the world to shop for country records, songbooks, and videos. Also essential are the ''I'm Walking the Floor Over You'' welcome mats.

Music-Industry Hangouts
38. Brown's Diner
Sit at the bar for a burger and a brew, and you just might find yourself next to Don Everly or John Prine, both of whom frequent this fine greasy spoon.

39. Pancake Pantry
This is the ''power breakfast'' place for Music Row's movers and shakers.

40. Faison's Yummy Cuisine
Good wine list. Stars to glimpse.

Miscellaneous
41. The Nashville Nertwork
One of the best places to catch a star is at the daily TV tapings here. More tapings take place at Jim Owens Entertainment on McGavock Street on Music Row. You're invited.

42.Music Row
All the great powers of Nashville show biz packed into one 10- block district — record companies, booking agencies, stars' offices, etc. You will also find the Mandrell, Waylon, Elvis, and Hank museums, along with the best souvenir shops. Items of interest: the Hank Williams musical figurine that plays "Your Cheatin' Heart (the Hank Jr. figure plays "Family Tradition"), from the Hank Williams Jr. Shop; the ''Love Me Tender'' shampoo from the Elvis gift shop; and the guitar nail clippers and guitar hairbrush from the Country Music Mall. Conway Twitty's store has the Twitty Bird tote bag you'll need to carry everything else. All locations are in the Nashville area unless otherwise noted.