Meat and potatoes was once a synonym for dinner in America; today most of our potato consumption takes the form of french fries. But New York cooking teacher Lydie Marshall would change that by dicing, slicing, shredding, and dressing up our tubers in gratins, croquettes, latkes, ragouts, and other improvisations. Even if you can't track down all the specialized varieties she identifies, Marshall's A Passion for Potatoes can help you get the best results from spuds at hand. B+
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