REAL BEER AND GOOD EATS

REAL BEER AND GOOD EATS Bruce Aidells and Denis Kelly (Knopf, $23) Aidells and Kelly, who crashed sausagefests across the land for their 1990 book, Hot Links & Country Flavors, have now toured the nation's small breweries to produce a guide to American beer that includes recipes made with beer or, in their view, made to eat with beer. For beer mavens, the reports on brews and breweries make for good reading. For cooks, the recipes favor he-man stuff like spareribs and sauerkraut, accompanied by advice on which beer to serve with the meal. Of course beer drinkers may not need a pair of self-styled arbiters to tell them what brew to have with their sausages or raw onions. B -SF