The Four Seasons, New York * Take away the $200 lunch tab for two and you've got the school cafeteria for the most powerful students in New York. Yoo-hoo! Cosmo editor Helen Gurley Brown, is that you? Yo, Henry Kissinger, don't you ever eat a meal at home? The decor is suburban high school utilitarian and the food isn't the point; the point is that the editor of Vanity Fair can wave to the correspondents from 60 Minutes and everyone can see everyone for two hours before getting back to their voice mail and electronic messages. (FYI, everyone who is anyone is sitting in the Grill Room for lunch, not the more formal Pool Room.) Caf hours are pretty much 12:30 p.m. to 2:30 p.m., but there are always some stragglers; the other day Michael Ovitz was seen dealing long after the dessert cart was retired for the day. The Ivy, Los Angeles * It's pretty. It's so very pretty, this country bistro in the heart of interior-decorator territory. And it's decorated with baskets on the walls and plates on the walls and old hats on the walls. Cute waiters work at this place, and pretty actors and their managers like this place, and tough, pretty women in tailored jackets, jeans, and Linda Hamilton's Terminator 2 eyewear like to dine here like girlfriends rather than like deal makers. Historic marker: stuff grilled over mesquite in L.A. was first grilled here. Historic moment: Madonna's summit supper with Michael Jackson here last March.


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