LE DOME, LOS ANGELES *If Spago is where nouveau-money Hollywood stars go to be seen and Morton's is where nouveau-money Hollywood suits go to make deals, this dark, ornate, green-and-maroon joint is where celebrity Hollywood goes to forget about California cuisine and designer pizzas altogether. This is where Elizabeth Montgomery dines in a corner and where celebrities like Zsa Zsa Gabor and Sylvester Stallone chow down. Bobby-the-waiter, who's been with the place for 15 years, can reel off a list of regulars: Richard Gere, Liza Minnelli, Gregory Peck, Walter Matthau, Sting, Diana Ross, Julio Iglesias. Oh, he could go on-how Elton John celebrated his 35th birthday here and how Natalie Cole and Joan Rivers and Ann-Margret and Don Rickles have placed their orders with him. But say, isn't that Brigitte Nielsen on the other side of the room? TRIBECA GRILL, NEW YORK *Robert De Niro. Bob. Bobby. He's a co-owner of the place, and his dad's artwork is all around the room. So you can imagine who else drops in, especially with the TriBeCa Film Center upstairs and all those movie and music types and Wall Street execs with downtown condos looking for good nouvelle food and mineral water. San Pellegrino, anyone?
RYOTEI, TOKOYO *In a town where discretion is high art, the big deals are cut at places so hush-hush they aren't even listed in the phone book. These exclusive clublike restaurants don't put signs on their doors. And forget about getting reservations unless you know a manager personally. Prices: sky-high ($500 a plate for dinner is not unheard of). Decor: private rooms with tatami mats. Billing: no check at the end of the night. Instead, everything is settled up, discreetly, at the end of the month. In cash.



