Betty Groff, a 10th-generation Pennsylvania Mennonite, also runs an eatery. Groff's Farm Restaurant, in Mount Joy, Pa., specializes in the family-style country cooking of the Pennsylvania Dutch. In her Pennsylvania Dutch Cookbook Groff shares recipes for dandelion wine and blackberry cordial; imparts the secret of good slaw (long hand- squeezing); instructs in the stuffing of beef hearts and pig stomachs; and sets down directions for the scrapple, souse (head cheese), and home-canned relishes still made every day in Lancaster County. She has marked certain dishes as likely fund-raisers for fire department suppers or 4-H and high school band projects, and she links others with barn raisings, country fairs, and front-porch get-togethers.
Urbanites bored with deli muffins might well be transported by Betty's sweet delights: the Moravian Christmas cake that annually strains the local druggist's saffron supply, the Shrove Tuesday fastnachts (potato doughnuts) that provide sustenance through Lent, and maybe even the raisin-filled ''funeral pie'' served to mourners. Alas, her fetchingly evoked square meals replete with bacon, eggs, cheese, cream, butter, and flour-based white sauces take us back to the days before cholesterol counting became a national obsession. B-