Elbowing past invading vacationers, bleary-eyed fishermen, gym-bound muscle boys, Wall Street traders in designer sandals, and a guy dressed like Celine Dion, devoted ''P-town'' local Cunningham narrates a jaunt through his peculiar environs on Cape Cod's boot tip. The curious setting -- full of history and spectacle, carnival-esque in summer and dirge-like in winter -- suits an author whose terrific The Hours featured both a bald lesbian and Virginia Woolf among its unusual cast of characters. Barring a cutesy moment or two (such as asking visitors not to discourage ''being blessed'' by drag queens who hop on their cars and sing show tunes), Cunningham writes with the acuity of the Pulitzer winner that he is. (His volume, incidentally, inaugurates Crown's promising new series of famous-author/single-subject/tiny-hardcover books a la Penguin Lives.)
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