Any foodie worth his coarse salt remembers -- in mouthwatering detail -- every flavor that shaped his palate. So it goes with chef-restaurateur Jeremiah Tower, who recounts with world-weary relish ''what I saw (and cooked) at the American culinary revolution'' -- i.e., the memorable meals on his journey from childhood gourmet to godfather of California's New American cuisine in the '80s and '90s. Tower recalls his days at Chez Panisse with Alice Waters (with whom he's enjoyed a rocky, if rewarding, relationship) and at Stars, his own San Francisco brasserie. Between mouthfuls of champagne and cannabis cookies (recipe included!), Tower muses on the sensuality of good ingredients, the comfort of white truffles, and the disarming intimacy of a naked lunch. Favorite morsel of wisdom: Beef, he instructs, is always safe ''when served with Lafite.''