ALL MEAT LOOKS LIKE SOUTH AMERICA:

You're not a moneybags. You don't have $135 to shell out for Gary Larson's newly released Complete Far Side. Try McCall's stuff instead. The illustrator and essay humorist is a 21st-century Larson mixed with a little of Futurama-era Matt Groening. As a bonus, he usually supplements his sleek pastel-tinted drawings of ''The Car Wash of the Gods,'' the butter tart (''Canada's premier patriotic pastry''), and ''Golf Carts of the Third Reich'' with droll essays like you might see in The New Yorker. Which is where, actually, much of McCall's daffy work has appeared over the last 23 years.