The Man Who Ate Everything

What a waste that in his capacity as Vogue’s food critic, Jeffrey Steingarten must cater to would-be sylphs—gamely turning out essays on high-protein regimens, Olestra, and where to find the most delectable water. What a relief that his own dietary resolve is so flimsy—its frequent rueful collapse prompting monthlong obsessions with choucroute, barbecue, and Milky Way Swirl Cake; intense periods of detective work into various condiments (with his wife a kind of wry Watson); and delightful exposés like “Salad the Silent Killer.” Whatever he’s scrutinizing—and no sardine is safe—this is a superb, omnivorous collection from an obvious man of taste.