Toast A celebrated food writer for the U.K.'s Observer , Nigel Slater spent his childhood obsessed with treats like fairy cakes and candy floss. And though… Toast A celebrated food writer for the U.K.'s Observer , Nigel Slater spent his childhood obsessed with treats like fairy cakes and candy floss. And though… 2004-10-07 Nonfiction Gotham
Book Review

Toast (2004)

EW's GRADE
A-

Details Release Date: Oct 07, 2004; Writer: Nigel Slater; Genre: Nonfiction; Publisher: Gotham

A celebrated food writer for the U.K.'s Observer, Nigel Slater spent his childhood obsessed with treats like fairy cakes and candy floss. And though he does provide a glossary for Yanks — cupcakes and cotton candy, incidentally — no translation is needed for this unassuming autobiography. At its sweet heart, Toast is a stirring tale of a troubled childhood, strung together by memorable meals both appetizing and revolting: Mum (who died when he was 9) mixing a Christmas cake, Dad force-feeding him eggs. Walnut whips were his dessert of choice while spying on secret lovers; medium-rare filet got him laid. And toast? It's Slater's ultimate comfort food; he adores its ''rough, toasted crust,'' the ''doughy cushion'' beneath, and its ''warm, salty'' butter topping. ''It is impossible,'' he declares, ''not to love someone who makes toast for you.''

Originally posted Oct 22, 2004 Published in issue #789 Oct 22, 2004 Order article reprints
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